| Click to Post a New Message!
Page [ 1 ] |
|
|
|
Let s play Stump the mechanic
Willie, we had a similar problem with a few of our Ford PSD pickups too.
It turns out Ford had a re-builder under contract here locally who had, let's say, a less than ideal QC program.
The re-man. water pumps were garbage, they had such a large tolerance that they couldn't develop any pressure to the flow, they barely exceeded the natural convection flow itself. As a result the small lines to the heater core saw barely any flow at all.
When we finally figured it out, because we replaced away from home and it worked like a champ, we raised heck with Ford here and they swapped us out our re-mans for brand new ones.
Best of luck.
|
|
 Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Let s play Stump the mechanic
Willie, you're missing one small point here.
In a coling system pressure is created by confining liquid and forcing it to a higher boil point.
The water pump only circulates the water.
If you have a 15 PSI rad. cap and the engine reaches operating temp. the system will have 15 PSI even without a water pump. In fact many Asian spec. machines don't even have a water pump, circulation is accomplished purely by convection.
The better test would be to put a pony pump in line between engine and heater core, get engine to temp, and check heat with pump off, then switch it on and see if you get dramatically more heat. I'm guessing you will.
The problem with the poor remans was the excessive clearance between the impellor and the housing. The impellor would let so much fluid by that between the resistance to flow in the heater core and the lack of flow, it was just easier for the water to take the path of least resistance and not go through the heater core.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Let s play Stump the mechanic
Willie, right back to what I said earlier, if the water pump isn't pumping, it won't displace any air trapped in the system either!!!
There's an old trick I've used before, CAREFULLY!!!!
When the engine is hot, and the system has a little pressure, carefully loosen the temp. sender. If there is air trapped it will hiss out past it, if not there will be coolant from the start.
If the temp. sender reads tiddly-squat (check it with a meter) when a thermometer tells you the coolant is say 175°, then you have a) air next to the sender, b) a bad sender, c) faulty wire leading to the meter, or d) your meter went south.
Best of luck.
|
|
Add Photo
Bookmarks: |
|
| |
|
Page [ 1 ] | Thread 126269 Filter by Poster:
1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 1 |
|
()
Picture of the Day
Coachlarry
Unanswered Questions
Active Subjects
Hot Topics
Featured Suppliers
|
Gas Generator Weather Protecti
03-20-2006, 08:24 
Digg It 
Del.icio.us